Friday, September 16, 2005

Food & Clothing

I can't really imagine what food and eating must have been like in 1770. Without refrigeration, food preparation was a bit trickier and the food tended to be more local. We have to remember one of the grand prizes of new world discoveries was spices. The food served was in need of these in order to overcome unpleasant tastes, like spoilage. Yuk.

My first visit to England was during my first marriage's honeymoon and we bought a package deal through American Express. While it at least wasn't a trip consisting of a bus-load of retirees (I have nothing against old people... I am one), it did rather limit where we could stay. Both of us were sick with flu (and couldn't get our money back unless we died) and felt rather compelled to eat some of the food for which we'd already paid. Our first meal was Beef Wellington or something that sounded English anyway and was dreadful -- bleak wine selections, passable beer, though dessert was a clear winner. The next morning I drug myself out to breakfast and was greeted by a lavish display of eggs, sausages, mushrooms, breads, jams and marmalade, real butter, and several other concoctions I was uncertain of their origins (fish, fowl, mineral, or vegetable?). I was in heaven, ate like the true glutton I am and retreated to walk around the block a few times.

The days passed, our health improved a little, and I consistently looked forward to breakfast which had become my main meal of the day. I began to grab light meals and snacks at pubs and drank (much better) beer and ale to fill me up during the day. It was an easy habit to acquire and reminded me of the military, when the best meal was always breakfast and I tended to drink a good deal back then too. Anyway, we journeyed up to Scotland and I prepared myself for the worst. I'd been led to believe the Scottish food was notoriously bad or dull. A friend of my wife's had told us to try a local restaurant which featured a wider selection of food styles. Wider... try international! We tried the curries and began to not only feel better immediately, we could smell and taste normally again. Just what the doctor ordered. Maybe the Scottish ale was partially the cure, but I felt great the rest of the trip. I'd discovered the secret to the British palette -- foods from the former colonies had found their way into the food scene and become the adventurous cuisine of choice.

On latter trips we (my second wife and I) discovered the wonderful English grocery stores with all types of wonderfully fresh food. In Bath we shopped at Waitrose and elsewhere we've frequented Marks & Spencer. Truly as good or better than anything in the Midwest and rivaling food stores in New York, San Francisco, Seattle, and Dallas. In short, I tend to look forward to English foods, it just requires a little research, legwork, and ignoring old stereotypes of food.

It also seems to me pubs today are changing to more upscale eating establishments than previously; they too are more reflective of an international table. One can always find the standard pub staples such as fish and chips, Shepherd's pie, bangers and mash (sausages and mashed potatoes!), and an occasional kidney pie, but one is also likely to see curry, Thai, or Spanish dishes as the special of the day.

I love to eat and am looking forward to our Redbrook B&B and the lovely breakfasts from Christine. I've acquired a new taste for blood sausage and always get to eat my wife's portion. Only five more days....
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Clothing in the early days of travel often required much more formal selections. Remembering the circles which enjoyed tourism were largely affluent and upper class, social gatherings were opportunities to display class, wealth, breeding, and flair. I've seen the clothing from Georgian England and am mesmerized by such adornments as diamond and ruby shoe buckles (for men) and the elaborate wigs, waistcoats, and accessories. Trunks of clothes were needed for extended trips like the Grand Tour. As tourism evolved and walking more and more became desirable and stylish, some of these customs altered, but were not forgotten altogether. You could arrive by coach, carrying loads of personal adornments and niceties, and still go walking from your inn.

It seems that early 20th century walking was still fashionable, as evidenced in this ad for ladies undergarments in the 1913 Warde Locke Guide to the Wye. ... nothing as annoying as corset steels snapping after a little exertion -- indeed!



For this trip comfort and utility are paramount. While there are a few socially demanding occasions, such as dinner with new friends or a meeting in a university or museum, they require mostly a stylish jacket or sweater. For me, vests and cargo-capable pants are highly important as I'm traveling with many gadgets and I'd like to be able to find these when I need them.

I find there are many stores which cater to outdoorsmen and women, but unlike the USA these aren't filled with guns, shells/bullets, stuffed trophy kills and decoys, but instead walking sticks, viewing optics, foul-weather gear, and a huge assortment of lightweight clothing and shoes. Shoes! Oh, I also have a shoe fixation and I look longingly at the soles and instep of many a lightweight walking or hiking shoe. Alas, I have very wide feet and find a few selections that I truly like or can easily afford. I probably have been shopping for shoes to take on this trip fives times and still haven't found THE shoe for me. Luckily I like my Rockport "Guide" shoes -- they're comfortable, sturdy and a wee bit heavy. I'll manage.



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Next up, all the equipment I have to carry and use for the tour.

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